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Gdańsk University of Technology

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Emulsifying blends based on natural fats for eco-design of O/W emulsions

Emulsifier blends are most often used to stabilize and modulate the properties of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions, such as skin care or application-related consistency. However, the rational design of such emulsifier blends is often not well understood, especially when their ingredients are natural raw materials. This study aimed to analyze the influence of natural fatty ingredients selected as emulsifiers on the emulsion properties. For this purpose, the stability, microstructure and rheological properties of the produced emulsions were monitored during their storage. The effect of five blends containing fatty alcohols, cetyl palmitate, beeswax, avocado butter and one typical emulsifier, i.e. sorbitan oleate, in various weight proportions, was analyzed. Even though the blends contained only hydrophobic ingredients, O/W type emulsions were obtained. The results indicate that all blends can stabilize O/W emulsions, but with a specific qualitative and quantitative composition. The crystal structures created by the blend components were responsible for the stabilization of all emulsions, but the most beneficial properties were provided by the blend with the addition of beeswax and sorbitan oleate. These findings provide new insights into the design of safe and ecological emulsions.

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